How can tourism improve the world?

Posted by Júlíana Björnsdóttir - 09/11/09 at 08:11:38 am

Eight years ago I passed through the beautiful coastal city of Beirut in Lebanon. It was perhaps the most powerful experience of a city visit I have ever encountered in my short life. As we drove into the city, half-ruined apartment buildings seeminlgy one step away from total collapse were all around me. Occasionally we would hear a thundering noise from distance; we were told it was the city’s attempts to clean up the destructions made to the city in the war in 1983.

As we got further into the city, I remember rather vividly a striking reminder of the human consequences suffered from war-situations; a man maybe in his forties or early fifties past us as we were stuck waiting for the green light at a cross road. He had lost both his legs below knees. He had made himself a wheelchair out of a skateboard. It was a sore sight but one that has remained with me since then.

We finally arrived at our destination, Planet Hollywood for a burger meal. Planet Hollywood is (might have changed following the war in 2006) located on the beach front. What striking change there was to the cityscape: a young woman running along the pavement aligning itself along the beach wearing shorts and running top, and a young man running topless.

What phenomenal oppositions co-existing in the same city!  We had the chance to walk along the area by the coast and a little bit further into the city centre; we found the people of Beirut were warm and welcoming.  Earlier in the day we had been driven to West-Beirut where the fighting had been at its worst.  Nearly twenty years later pillars of broken bricks were still spread on the streets of West-Beirut and the only semi-intact  building was a two-floor house, caged up entirely by bars.  The interior was covered with bricks and sticking out among the brick was the sight of a teddy bear.

At that moment the atrocity of war struck me; I was a young adult from a priviledged background, and although I had heard of the war in Lebanon in the eighties, I had never been exposed to the devastating consequences of it.  Still in 2001 people were living in the half-destroyed high-rises awaiting their benefits from the insurance companies.  I wonder  if perhaps tourism can come to aid countries recovering from catastrophic events such as wars and natural disaster. What if tourists would pay a small amount to support the reconstruction of the cities and countries in return for the pleasure of visiting?

As travellers we subconsciously expect to have more good times than bad times, to be visually stimulated by stunning landscape rather than monstrous piles of blown-up bricks. The gift to travel can also be means to physically experiencing the presence of past atrocities. Westerners are often fenced off and protected like children in day-care centres from the horror of war, but perhaps it would do us good to remove the protective circle and expose ourselves to sorrow. I myself think I am a better person for having seen the duality of Beirut, I at least am able to apprehand how lucky I am, with or without the financial crisis!

Wellington in one day…on a budget!

Posted by Freyja Oddsdóttir - 28/10/09 at 10:10:44 am

Should you find yourself with a day to spare in Wellington, the capital of New Zealand, you should consider yourself lucky as there is plenty of things to do and see… and the best of all is that most of them are free!

One of the coolest things about Wellington is the national museum, Te Papa. What? You don’t like museums? Not to worry, I don’t really like them either…  but this one is no ordinary museum. It is colourful and interactive and there is a house where you can experience an earthquake as well as see a colossal squid recently caught in the South Pacific. You have nothing to lose but time since entrance is free!

Another must-do is a walk down Cuba Street which is a lively and vibrant street with small boutiques and restaurants from all over the world. Don’t be hesitant to chat with the staff, kiwis are one of the friendliest nations there are! When you’re at the bottom of Cuba Street, you can keep on going by walking past Manners Mall and to the end of Willis street where you’ll find the Old Bank Arcade, an old charming building with shops and boutiques. As soon as you step your foot inside, you’ll immediately feel like you’re 100 years back in time!

From Lambton Quay (where the Old Bank Arcade is located) you can take the cable car up to the Botanical Gardens for a great view over the city centre. If you want a better look of the whole city, the view from top of Mount Victoria will give you just that.

Hungry? Malaysian cuisine in one of the many Malaysian restaurants downtown will fill you up without burning a hole in your wallet (6-8 USD). You can also try Burger Fuel which has the best burger and fries I have ever had. Another thing to indulge in is coffee and cake, since Wellington has the highest number of cafés per capita in the world! Cubita, a small and cozy café on Taranaki street that serves cuban coffee and the most amazing chocolate cheesecake is a safe bet.

These are just to mention a few… so start exploring and don’t be scared to ask the locals for advice, they will be happy to help!

The Coffee-chase!

Posted by Júlíana Björnsdóttir - 27/10/09 at 09:10:29 am

Last Friday morning was rather unusual for me, I found myself roaming around Kringlan, Iceland’s first shopping mall, and actually purchasing a couple of items. Kringlan is an excellent place to do your shopping when visiting Iceland during winter or on a rainy day.  On this particular occasion though, my initial plan, to which I stuck eventually, was to hang out at my favourite cafe, Kaffi Roma.

Ever since my Paris years coffee has not been just coffee.  A good cup of coffee is made with passion by baristas who themselves (with few exceptions) are quite particular about what makes for good coffee.  I always order the same single-shot latte with extra milk;  to me consistency in quality is the exception with most cafes, but Kaffi Roma always gets it right!

Kaffi Roma is located on the second floor of Kringlan; its location is not the quietest but to me that’s not an issue. A second branch is supposedly located on Laugavegur 118 in the centre of Reykjavík (although I am convinced the actual location is Rauðárstígur, across the street from the Kaupthing ATM).  I would most definitely recommend with Kaffi Roma if you are as particular (and passionate) as I myself am where it comes to good coffee. Not to mention that occasionally I even get a chance to refresh my Spanish a bit as the cafe in Kringlan is run, or at least managed, by a native Spanish-speaker!

What I would appreciate is if those of you who read this blog take a minute and let us know what your favourite cafe is where you live, and where it is located.  I for one would find that very useful!

Massaging South East Asia

Posted by Erna Eiríksdóttir - 26/10/09 at 09:10:55 am

When traveling in Asia, long flights, hours on trains, more hours on buses, hours on foot while exploring something new, uncomfortable beds and even an upset belly are bound to follow you. A good massage seems to fix all of the world’s problems – the problem is that there are too many of them. The following is a list of the most common massages to have.

Khmer Massage: Your body will be massaged with a body. After changing in to pajamas your tiny masseuse will stretch you in all directions and massage your body with her entire body. For a sore body that needs to be set straight, this massage is terrific. The masseuse frequently puts all her body weight on one spot of your body to help the muscles loosen up. My favorite part of the massage is when the girl sort of kneels on your back and puts her hands under your arms (your hands locked behind your head) and holds your neck. She proceeds to swing you around, slowly at first, until she really cracks it and you think your back is going to break in million pieces. However, you do feel like a million bucks afterwards.

Thai Massage: similar to Khmer massage except you need to participate a bit more. The massage is quite yoga-esque and differs from South to North. In S-Thailand the main focus of the massage is acupressure while in the North stretching is the focal point.

Balinese Massage: a soft aromatherapeutic oil massage from the Indonesian island of Bali. Your muscles are kneaded in a wonderful relaxing with warm, lovely smelling, oil.

Hilot: a therapy from the Philippines. As so many Asian massages it is to relieve sore joints and kneads muscles. But, Hilot is so much more, the technique is often used to reset dislocated shoulders and help with childbirth, amongst others.

Fish Massage: It is exactly what it sounds like. Tiny fishies massage you by eating you, mostly your feet and callus. Tickles a bit and feels a little odd at first, but your freshly eaten and smooth feet will love you for it. You can have fish massage in other parts of the world but this seems to be very popular in the region.

Foot massage: as the name says your feet will be massaged. Sometimes it is infused with reflexology but generally your toes and heels will be very happy campers. Best thing is that most often you get a hand massage, and a short but revitalizing head, neck and back massage too.

Lulur: one of my favorites is this lovely massage and scrub from beautiful Indonesia. Traditionally, brides to be have this treatment for 40 days before their wedding to sweeten and soften their skin. First you are massaged with coconut oil mixed with pandan leaves and cempaka flowers. Followed by a soft scrub made of rice, turmeric, jasmine and sandalwood. To end the treatment is a flower bath filled with aromatic flowers such as frangipani and jasmine along with astringent leaves. During the bath you should drink a liquid remedy called jamu which is made of turmeric, ginger, egg yolk and herbs. After the three steps of Lulur your skin will be rejuvenated and so sweetly scented

A tip for the ladies, they will, most likely, massage your breasts, especially if you have a non-traditional massage and there is no way to stop it in most cases, as the masseuses normally don’t speak English except for a few words.
Unless you go to a spa where the staff knows what they are doing I suggest that you just go with the traditional massage. I’ve had some very interesting massages through out the years in Asia, claiming to be Swedish and whatnot ended up being the same as the traditional but more expensive.

Damascus – a historical wonder

Posted by Júlíana Björnsdóttir - 20/10/09 at 10:10:16 am

When I was 21 years old I had a sense of being invincible! I wanted to experience a proper adventure, and found my solution in an overland trip.  4 months of camping, driving all the way from London to Cairo, and from Nairobi to Cape Town.  The purpose of the trip for me was to get to know the continent I had dreamed of seeing since I was a little five year old, looking at pictures from the dark continent (as Afeica was once called).  I did not want to be staying in hotels away from the nature; I wanted pure exposure to the elements.

Prior to arriving in North Africa, the trip took us through an enchanting part of the world, the Middle East.  Ten days prior to the departure date two planes flew into the World Trade Centre, changing the world as we knew it.  My plan of going to the Middle East certainly concerned my family a great deal, but I was determined to go.  And so I did, along with an equally adventurous friend of mine!

We passed through Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Jordon, and Egypt.  My favourite city in this part of the world, is without a doubt Damascus.  Damascus is the city in which I felt utterly miserable health-wise but the one city that fascinated me the most.  It is a wonderful city.  Unlike other cities I had visited, the buildings and the narrow streets told a story of a great city; first sign of inhabitation can be dated back as far as 8-10.000 years.

But what I loved the most was the people, the Damascene.  Syrian people are the friendliest I have ever encountered.  Being an olive-skinned brunette I did not feel like an outsider wearing my shawl to cover my hair, a long skirt to cover my legs, and a long-sleeved shirt to cover my arms and middle section.  I remember a conversation I had with a store-owner in the market by the Umayyad Mosque where he asked me why I was not married.  I was not offended in any way, I understood that in their culture that is simply a tradition.  He even offered me tea, and I politely accepted.

But I was not invincible! This city is so remarkable that yours truly, suffering from a nasty case of diarrhea, walked around on a hot day, all covered up, until I had no choice but to go back to the campsite.  Imagine looking for toilet facilities every 15 minutes!  The diarrhea part was my fault, but it was worth it… The street vendors do after all make the best kebab!

Island (do)hopping in the Caribbean

Posted by Tihomir Rangelov - 08/10/09 at 10:10:43 pm

Most people associate the Caribbean with pristine beaches and luxurious resorts. The resorts are of course there but if you want to dig deeper and go a little off the beaten track, on the Caribbean islands you will find an inspiring mixture of cultures and landscapes, which are worth exploring in between the dozes on the fantastic beaches.

The Caribbean islands generally consist of the Greater Antilles (the bigger islands of Cuba, Puerto Rico, Hispaniola and Jamaica) to the north and the Lesser Antilles – numerous smaller islands from the Virgin Islands to Trinidad off the coast of South America. And while you get the hammock under a palm tree (beware the coconuts!) and the turquoise sea by default, each of these islands has something unique to offer. All the islands are culturally diverse, their population being a mixture of Africans, Europeans, East Indians, Chinese, Latin Americans and their common offspring. Each island has been colonised by one or more European countries so you can witness a unique and charming mishmash of African music and Spanish architecture, Indian curry-dishes and French cuisine.
Most of the islands in the Lesser Antilles are volcanic so do not miss your chance to visit the volcanoes, especially in Montserrat and St. Kitts. You can also wander through tropical unexplored rainforest in Dominica and Tobago, take a boat trip among crocodiles and funny birds in Trinidad or watch giant sea turtles lay their eggs at night on the beaches of Grenada. Some say there is even more life underwater so don´t miss the diving and snorkelling among colourful fish, amazing coral reefs and underwater active volcanoes in Carriacou.
So visiting only one island in the Caribbean is like eating only the cherry off your cake – it will be rich and tasty but not complete. And once you are there, why not do some island hopping?

Island hopping in the Caribbean is easier than you probably imagine. The different islands, despite most of them being each a seperate country have very good and relatively inexpensive connections. You will also see planes imitating you – that is: hopping between one or more islands on their way to their final destination. The competition among airlines in the region has been on the rise recently and that has brought a further drop in prices. To or from the Caribbean you can also easily connect with South, Central or North America and continue your journey. So no matter where you decide to start your journey or whether you are going north or south, make sure you always consult dohop.com for the best price available, as dohop.com finds flights on small and large airlines around the globe.

A profile of a Café-Café Babalú

Posted by Rúna Vala - 07/10/09 at 12:10:52 pm

As I climb up the narrow staircase of this former apartment building the sound of funk meets me. The decorations are very much like you’d expect from an old aunt… in a good and homey way, couches, lamps and knick-knacks.

In the middle there is a bar, used as a kitchen, crowded with kitchen utensils an other useful stuff, and there I find the runner of the place. I ask him for an interview and he gladly accepts. I sit down and take out my mac while he finishes up some orders before he sits down. I notice that there is a cat there, conversing with some of the guests. I see a guy that I know that works there and ask him about the cat. He tells me that he (the cat) has decided that he lives here now.

Glenn comes over and we start chatting.

RV: What is your name and what is the name of this place?
G: My name is Glenn Barkan and the place is called Café Babalú (pronounced bah-bah-loo).
RV:What is the reason you came up with the idea of place?
G: It was already here when we started. It had been here for about four years when the owners kind of lost their interest, they were losing a lot of money and they just wanted to get rid of it. I was working here and saw the potential so me and my friend bought it together. Last March she sold me her half.
RV: What’s so special about this place?
G: The friendliness it generates. I like to greet everyone who comes in and talk to them. People start talking, even though they don’t know each other. It’s cozy and personal. We have a patio which is very popular in the summer.
RV: What is your speciality in eating and drinking?
G: We serve Crépes, both savory, with spinach or ham and sweet, with chocolate and fruit. The New York cheese cake is very popular, it’s my grandma’s secret recipe. Everything here is home made, which makes it special. We also offer all the regular coffee drinks and we make a nice chai latté. David (the one hat I spoke to about the cat earlier) has started making Chamomile latté and everyone likes our hot chocolate too.
RV: What type of people come here?
G: We get a lot of students and we receive groups like amateur photography, Bob Dylan appreciation club and in the evenings a lot of couples come to have a glass of wine or something. This is a place that I love coming to because I feel like the guests are my visitors. People that come here for the first time tell me that it’s so cute and charmed. I love making a place that people come to relax and feel safe. We started off with nothing but I didn’t have to take loans or make big investments. I just built on what I had. I’m not going to be rich by doing this, I just want to have enough to pay my employees and I want to keep the prices down so that the students keep coming here.
RV: What kind of music do you play?
G: A lot of old music, from the 30s and the 40s, jazz, blues and swing. I love Ella Fitzgerald. The employees can play what they like but we try to keep it mixed. I also sometimes play classical music .
I thank Glenn for his time and have an English Scone with jam and butter. It is delicious. I have to leave this relaxed and friendly café sooner than I want to, but I know that I’ll be there again soon.

Café Babalú is located at 22 Skólavörðustígur, the street leading to the big church at the top of the hill in down town Reykjavík.

Soaking in the Zambezi!

Posted by Júlíana Björnsdóttir - 02/10/09 at 08:10:43 am

In my last blog I wrote about my bungee over the Zambezi-river. In this blog I want to introduce to you, my reader, another activity in which to partake while near Victoria Falls.

At the time of my trip my love for water was not quite as intense as it is today. So the thought of doing a river rafting down a grade 5 river, made my tummy do a couple of back-flips while walking down the narrow pathway to the riverbanks where the two boats awaited us. I was also incredibly excited for the experience to come as I had done river rafting before in a smaller river in Iceland. This time I was facing the forces of nature in its most powerful form!

The trip itself down the river began quietly, but got more intense as we got further up the river. For some reason, my friend Eva and I bring out the lunatic in each other, so we wanted nothing more than for our boat to flip over and actually soak ourselves in the river. Crocodiles or no crocodiles, my God it had to happen!

Luckily for us, the guide seemed to be of the same opinion, so we got what we bargained for. Not only did our boat flip once but twice; and once my friend Eva drifted up the river for a bit. This is where my love for water begun, and since then water has become my passion.

I have included a link to the website for the company in charge of most, if not all, organized activities in the vicinity of Victoria Falls. Whether you are in Zimbabwe or Zambia, the options are the same.

I would fully recommend with trying at least one activity that makes you tremble. In the end of the day, you might just surprise yourself!

Insurance, do you really need it?

Posted by Erna Eiríksdóttir - 01/10/09 at 10:10:04 am

If you are traveling and you don’t have an insurance you are just plain stupid. It’s that simple. Sure, we all think “that’s never going to happen to me” but it just might!

I’m not sure, but I think everywhere in the world if you buy your plane ticket with your Visa credit card you automatically get a travel insurance, but it only lasts for a few months. Maybe it’s your gap year and you want to travel for a year or even longer. Maybe you are relocating to a developing country that doesn’t have a great reputation for its healthcare. Many people have no idea what to do or where to turn. It is actually quite easy as there are many online insurance companies that are reputable why not try World Nomad or Goodhealth Worldwide , just to name two good insurance companies.

A few reasons why you want insurance:

• You can get dysentery, if you do, you can die.
• You can get appendicitis, if you don’t get the operation you have a 0.8% chance of dying.
• You can get shot.
• You can brake a limb.
• You can get blown up by illegal fireworks while on an island somewhere far away from a good hospital.
• You might need to be evacuated, and that costs a hell of a lot of money, and the helicopter will not leave the shit hole you are in unless they get paid first!

Please, don’t be blind and live a lie. It CAN happen to you. If it does health insurance will be the best purchase you ever made. My health plan sure was! I got appendicitis few weeks ago and because I’m an expat with an expat insurance in a developing country I got to go to the good hospital with doctors that actually know basic biology and aren’t married to their first cousin.

Paying for your insurance might make your wallet cry at first but can you really put a price on your health? Not only that but if anything happens you will save hundreds, if not thousands of dollars

A Profile of a Café-Café Rót

Posted by Rúna Vala - 30/09/09 at 09:09:00 am

When I walk into Café Rót the sweet sound of swing jazz glides through my eardrum.

The place is husky and homey, a few people sitting and chatting and a few couples on the dance floor, Swinging away. It is Sunday night and dark and wet outside. I walk to the bar and greet my friend, Michael, and ask him if I can interview him about the place. He tells me that Ester knows a lot more about the place than he does. After she finishes up some kitchen chores she sits down with me to answer my questions.

RV: “What is your name and how long have you been working here?”
E: “My name is Ester Rós and I have been working here for the past one and a half year, the past year as a full time job.”
RV: “I see. How did the idea for this place come up?”
E: “Well, there was a shortage of quiet places in the down town, a café that is open long but does not serve alcohol. A charity called 180° founded this café as a non profit. The goal of it is not to make profit but keep the prices as low as possible. Homeless people can come and have soup and coffee and if you don’t have enough money for a cup you’ll get one anyway. People can bring their social activities here for free. We have dance nights, bands play here, we have art exhibitions, poem nights etc. There’s also a prayer- or quiet room in the basement. It’s not based on Christianity, but is for anyone who needs a quiet moment. Some guys also come here to meditate. It’s also a drug-free place for teenagers to hang out at nights and do their stuff”.
RV:“What’s special about the place”
E:“Warm, homy and friendly atmosphere”
RV: “What is the best thing that you offer to eat and drink?”
E: “Our quiche is awesome, but we also have great homemade cakes. We have African latte and chai latte along with all the regular coffee drinks and soft drinks. And then of course we have real chocolate… but fake cream” she adds and laughs.
RV:“What type of people come here?”
E:“All types, from weird high school kids to old people and everything in between”
RV:“What type of music do you play?”
E:“It pretty much depends on who’s working, but we try to play stuff that everyone can listen to, sometimes instrumental, but never too hard core. On Sunday nights we have a group of Lindy Hoppers and then we play swing Jazz and on Sundays there’s a group of tango dancers, then we play Tango music”.
RV:“Well, that’s it for my questions. Thank you very much for your time.”
E:“Glad I could help.”

I sit and edit my interview at the corner of this cosy little place at the heart of down town Reykjavík, the music gliding pleasantly through my ears, occasionally glaring out at the wet fall weather.

Café Rót is located at #17 Hafnarstræti, beside Rammagerðin, the biggest souvenir shop in Reykjavík.

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