How can tourism improve the world?

Photo by friend_faraway - Countdown 2 Pakistan

Photo by friend_faraway - Countdown 2 Pakistan

Eight years ago I passed through the beautiful coastal city of Beirut in Lebanon. It was perhaps the most powerful experience of a city visit I have ever encountered in my short life. As we drove into the city, half-ruined apartment buildings seeminlgy one step away from total collapse were all around me. Occasionally we would hear a thundering noise from distance; we were told it was the city’s attempts to clean up the destructions made to the city in the war in 1983.

As we got further into the city, I remember rather vividly a striking reminder of the human consequences suffered from war-situations; a man maybe in his forties or early fifties past us as we were stuck waiting for the green light at a cross road. He had lost both his legs below knees. He had made himself a wheelchair out of a skateboard. It was a sore sight but one that has remained with me since then.

We finally arrived at our destination, Planet Hollywood for a burger meal. Planet Hollywood is (might have changed following the war in 2006) located on the beach front. What striking change there was to the cityscape: a young woman running along the pavement aligning itself along the beach wearing shorts and running top, and a young man running topless.

What phenomenal oppositions co-existing in the same city!  We had the chance to walk along the area by the coast and a little bit further into the city centre; we found the people of Beirut were warm and welcoming.  Earlier in the day we had been driven to West-Beirut where the fighting had been at its worst.  Nearly twenty years later pillars of broken bricks were still spread on the streets of West-Beirut and the only semi-intact  building was a two-floor house, caged up entirely by bars.  The interior was covered with bricks and sticking out among the brick was the sight of a teddy bear.

At that moment the atrocity of war struck me; I was a young adult from a priviledged background, and although I had heard of the war in Lebanon in the eighties, I had never been exposed to the devastating consequences of it.  Still in 2001 people were living in the half-destroyed high-rises awaiting their benefits from the insurance companies.  I wonder  if perhaps tourism can come to aid countries recovering from catastrophic events such as wars and natural disaster. What if tourists would pay a small amount to support the reconstruction of the cities and countries in return for the pleasure of visiting?

As travellers we subconsciously expect to have more good times than bad times, to be visually stimulated by stunning landscape rather than monstrous piles of blown-up bricks. The gift to travel can also be means to physically experiencing the presence of past atrocities. Westerners are often fenced off and protected like children in day-care centres from the horror of war, but perhaps it would do us good to remove the protective circle and expose ourselves to sorrow. I myself think I am a better person for having seen the duality of Beirut, I at least am able to apprehand how lucky I am, with or without the financial crisis!

Packing the sensible way

Photo by smartlifetips.net

Photo by smartlifetips.net

It has been said that the happiest traveller is the one that can fit his bag under a seat on the bus, or take it as hand luggage on a flight. You may not believe this is feasible… but most of us learn the hard way that this is not only true, but actually possible! Take a hint from someone who “backpacked” around Europe with a 40 kg suitcase that broke in country number 3 (out of 12) and learn to pack light!

#1. Make a list. The things that make it onto your list should be “I cannot survive without this” type of things, rather than “I might need this” type of things. This also means that last minute, you won’t allow yourself to add things to your bag because you think “you might need them”… there’s a reason why they weren’t on your list in the first place, so stick to it.

#2. Make sure that all the clothes you take fit with most other items in your suitcase. Don’t take that yellow pattern shirt that only fits with that one pair of pants!

#3. Pick the smallest bag/suitcase you can get away with. If you bring a big bag, you will most likely either fill it up with stuff “you think you might need” before you leave or while you’re travelling… it’s human nature.

#4. You’ll be doing yourself a big favour by keeping everything liquid in either a water-proof wash kit or zip-lock/money bags tightly fastened with an elastic band. An item leaking into your bag is a pain that’s worth avoiding.

#5. Roll your clothes into tight tubes instead of folding them, they will take less space and are less likely to wrinkle.

#6. Should you be backpacking, you may thank yourself later for bringing little things like earplugs, a padlock, wet wipes and a travel washing line for hanging your clothes after washing.

#7. Remember that wherever you are going, you will most likely be able to buy whatever you didn’t bring. It will probably a lot cheaper than home and you support the local economy at the same time.

The less developed your destination is and the more you plan to move between places, the more important it is to pack light. There are heaps of extensive packing guides out there for any occasion… all you really need to do is to believe me when I say that you don’t need all this stuff you’re tempted to put in your bag… and you’re good to go!

Packing the emotional way

Photo by getty images

Photo by getty images

Are you about to embark on a long  trip? Are you moving to another country? If you are, you may have started to feel the agony of deciding of what to take with you and what to leave behind… especially when you realize that you can only bring 20 kgs with you. Most of us have collected quite a share of material belongings, so how does one decide what is worthy of being part of our 20 kg suitcase?

There are so many packing guides out there. But my problem was that all of them were very sensible but none of them helped you deal with the emotional side of having to leave your things behind… so here is a guide to packing  that takes your emotions into consideration, although I recommend looking at the sensible way to pack as well!

#1. Start early! Yes, everyone knows that… but apart from Bree Van de Kamp, does anyone ever do it? I recommend starting at least 2-3 weeks before scheduled departure (this goes for anything long term)… bring out all your stuff and start planning.

#2. Categorize all your stuff into 3 piles: things you absolutely must take with you, things you would like to take with you and things you know you don’t want to bring.

#3. Start packing the things that you absolutely must take with you. If your suitcase is already overflowing after this step, you may wanna go back to #2 and re-evaluate.

#4. Have a good look at the things that you would like to take with you and decide which of them would be of most use where you are going. You can even prioritize them and pack them one by one until your suitcase is full.

#5. Pack the things that you would have liked to take but couldn’t fit in your suitcase into boxes and store them where a friend/family member can reach them. If you realize upon arrival that you desperately miss some of them, you can always have them sent and the thought of that can give you peace of mind if you feel sad about leaving them (this saved me a lot of tears when I packed my collection of high heels in a box).

#6. Store or give away the things you didn’t want to bring.

Voilá! You are ready for your trip!

Wellington in one day…on a budget!

Photo by vicunicricket.com

Photo by vicunicricket.com

Should you find yourself with a day to spare in Wellington, the capital of New Zealand, you should consider yourself lucky as there is plenty of things to do and see… and the best of all is that most of them are free!

One of the coolest things about Wellington is the national museum, Te Papa. What? You don’t like museums? Not to worry, I don’t really like them either…  but this one is no ordinary museum. It is colourful and interactive and there is a house where you can experience an earthquake as well as see a colossal squid recently caught in the South Pacific. You have nothing to lose but time since entrance is free!

Another must-do is a walk down Cuba Street which is a lively and vibrant street with small boutiques and restaurants from all over the world. Don’t be hesitant to chat with the staff, kiwis are one of the friendliest nations there are! When you’re at the bottom of Cuba Street, you can keep on going by walking past Manners Mall and to the end of Willis street where you’ll find the Old Bank Arcade, an old charming building with shops and boutiques. As soon as you step your foot inside, you’ll immediately feel like you’re 100 years back in time!

From Lambton Quay (where the Old Bank Arcade is located) you can take the cable car up to the Botanical Gardens for a great view over the city centre. If you want a better look of the whole city, the view from top of Mount Victoria will give you just that.

Hungry? Malaysian cuisine in one of the many Malaysian restaurants downtown will fill you up without burning a hole in your wallet (6-8 USD). You can also try Burger Fuel which has the best burger and fries I have ever had. Another thing to indulge in is coffee and cake, since Wellington has the highest number of cafés per capita in the world! Cubita, a small and cozy café on Taranaki street that serves cuban coffee and the most amazing chocolate cheesecake is a safe bet.

These are just to mention a few… so start exploring and don’t be scared to ask the locals for advice, they will be happy to help!

The Coffee-chase!


Photo by Júlíana Björnsdóttir

Photo by Júlíana Björnsdóttir

Last Friday morning was rather unusual for me, I found myself roaming around Kringlan, Iceland’s first shopping mall, and actually purchasing a couple of items. Kringlan is an excellent place to do your shopping when visiting Iceland during winter or on a rainy day.  On this particular occasion though, my initial plan, to which I stuck eventually, was to hang out at my favourite cafe, Kaffi Roma.

Ever since my Paris years coffee has not been just coffee.  A good cup of coffee is made with passion by baristas who themselves (with few exceptions) are quite particular about what makes for good coffee.  I always order the same single-shot latte with extra milk;  to me consistency in quality is the exception with most cafes, but Kaffi Roma always gets it right!

Kaffi Roma is located on the second floor of Kringlan; its location is not the quietest but to me that’s not an issue. A second branch is supposedly located on Laugavegur 118 in the centre of Reykjavík (although I am convinced the actual location is Rauðárstígur, across the street from the Kaupthing ATM).  I would most definitely recommend with Kaffi Roma if you are as particular (and passionate) as I myself am where it comes to good coffee. Not to mention that occasionally I even get a chance to refresh my Spanish a bit as the cafe in Kringlan is run, or at least managed, by a native Spanish-speaker!

What I would appreciate is if those of you who read this blog take a minute and let us know what your favourite cafe is where you live, and where it is located.  I for one would find that very useful!

Massaging South East Asia

copyright: khmermassage.comWhen traveling in Asia, long flights, hours on trains, more hours on buses, hours on foot while exploring something new, uncomfortable beds and even an upset belly are bound to follow you. A good massage seems to fix all of the world’s problems – the problem is that there are too many of them. The following is a list of the most common massages to have.

Khmer Massage: Your body will be massaged with a body. After changing in to pajamas your tiny masseuse will stretch you in all directions and massage your body with her entire body. For a sore body that needs to be set straight, this massage is terrific. The masseuse frequently puts all her body weight on one spot of your body to help the muscles loosen up. My favorite part of the massage is when the girl sort of kneels on your back and puts her hands under your arms (your hands locked behind your head) and holds your neck. She proceeds to swing you around, slowly at first, until she really cracks it and you think your back is going to break in million pieces. However, you do feel like a million bucks afterwards.

Thai Massage: similar to Khmer massage except you need to participate a bit more. The massage is quite yoga-esque and differs from South to North. In S-Thailand the main focus of the massage is acupressure while in the North stretching is the focal point.

Balinese Massage: a soft aromatherapeutic oil massage from the Indonesian island of Bali. Your muscles are kneaded in a wonderful relaxing with warm, lovely smelling, oil.

Hilot: a therapy from the Philippines. As so many Asian massages it is to relieve sore joints and kneads muscles. But, Hilot is so much more, the technique is often used to reset dislocated shoulders and help with childbirth, amongst others.

Fish Massage: It is exactly what it sounds like. Tiny fishies massage you by eating you, mostly your feet and callus. Tickles a bit and feels a little odd at first, but your freshly eaten and smooth feet will love you for it. You can have fish massage in other parts of the world but this seems to be very popular in the region.

Foot massage: as the name says your feet will be massaged. Sometimes it is infused with reflexology but generally your toes and heels will be very happy campers. Best thing is that most often you get a hand massage, and a short but revitalizing head, neck and back massage too.

Lulur,

Lulur, copyright: arunaspa.com

Lulur: one of my favorites is this lovely massage and scrub from beautiful Indonesia. Traditionally, brides to be have this treatment for 40 days before their wedding to sweeten and soften their skin. First you are massaged with coconut oil mixed with pandan leaves and cempaka flowers. Followed by a soft scrub made of rice, turmeric, jasmine and sandalwood. To end the treatment is a flower bath filled with aromatic flowers such as frangipani and jasmine along with astringent leaves. During the bath you should drink a liquid remedy called jamu which is made of turmeric, ginger, egg yolk and herbs. After the three steps of Lulur your skin will be rejuvenated and so sweetly scented

A tip for the ladies, they will, most likely, massage your breasts, especially if you have a non-traditional massage and there is no way to stop it in most cases, as the masseuses normally don’t speak English except for a few words.
Unless you go to a spa where the staff knows what they are doing I suggest that you just go with the traditional massage. I’ve had some very interesting massages through out the years in Asia, claiming to be Swedish and whatnot ended up being the same as the traditional but more expensive.

How to make your winter bearable

Photo by Deva Deep

Summer is over…the nights are getting colder, you’re no longer wearing sandals and you’ve even caught an autumn cold. There is no better time than right now to start planning your warm getaway in the middle of winter!

A good thing about most of these destinations is that they’re not only warm, but they also offer the opportunity of planning a vacation for tight budgets. No matter where you are in the world, there should be a warm winter destination within about a 5 hour flight from your home and you can count on Dohop to find you a cheap flight to wherever your mind pleases.

Goa is located on the west coast of India and is renowned for its beaches, places of worship, world heritage architecture and rich flora and fauna… not to mention the food! A little further to the southeast, Thailand and Malaysia have a lot to offer with pristine islands, crystal clear sea, tasty exotic food and cheap shopping.

Morocco, Tunisia and Egypt in North Africa are becoming more and more popular for beachy holidays and are all relatively warm in winter. The recommended time to visit is autumn and spring when the weather is very pleasant, other than the sweaty high season.

The Caribbean has the advantage of having hot weather all year round, although some of the islands experience hurricanes and tropical storms from July to October, making it the perfect destination for mid and late winter. The downside of the Caribbean islands is that most of them are rather expensive, with the exceptions of a few places such as Dominican Republic, Bonaire, Grenada and Guadelope.

These are just to mention a few! So make winter bearable by planning your warm getaway now… pull out your world atlas and find the nearest place to refuel your summer battery!

Damascus – a historical wonder

Photo by Faleh Zahrawi

Photo by Faleh Zahrawi

When I was 21 years old I had a sense of being invincible! I wanted to experience a proper adventure, and found my solution in an overland trip.  4 months of camping, driving all the way from London to Cairo, and from Nairobi to Cape Town.  The purpose of the trip for me was to get to know the continent I had dreamed of seeing since I was a little five year old, looking at pictures from the dark continent (as Afeica was once called).  I did not want to be staying in hotels away from the nature; I wanted pure exposure to the elements.

Prior to arriving in North Africa, the trip took us through an enchanting part of the world, the Middle East.  Ten days prior to the departure date two planes flew into the World Trade Centre, changing the world as we knew it.  My plan of going to the Middle East certainly concerned my family a great deal, but I was determined to go.  And so I did, along with an equally adventurous friend of mine!

We passed through Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Jordon, and Egypt.  My favourite city in this part of the world, is without a doubt Damascus.  Damascus is the city in which I felt utterly miserable health-wise but the one city that fascinated me the most.  It is a wonderful city.  Unlike other cities I had visited, the buildings and the narrow streets told a story of a great city; first sign of inhabitation can be dated back as far as 8-10.000 years.

But what I loved the most was the people, the Damascene.  Syrian people are the friendliest I have ever encountered.  Being an olive-skinned brunette I did not feel like an outsider wearing my shawl to cover my hair, a long skirt to cover my legs, and a long-sleeved shirt to cover my arms and middle section.  I remember a conversation I had with a store-owner in the market by the Umayyad Mosque where he asked me why I was not married.  I was not offended in any way, I understood that in their culture that is simply a tradition.  He even offered me tea, and I politely accepted.

But I was not invincible! This city is so remarkable that yours truly, suffering from a nasty case of diarrhea, walked around on a hot day, all covered up, until I had no choice but to go back to the campsite.  Imagine looking for toilet facilities every 15 minutes!  The diarrhea part was my fault, but it was worth it… The street vendors do after all make the best kebab!

Island (do)hopping in the Caribbean

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The Caribbean (source: Google Maps)

Most people associate the Caribbean with pristine beaches and luxurious resorts. The resorts are of course there but if you want to dig deeper and go a little off the beaten track, on the Caribbean islands you will find an inspiring mixture of cultures and landscapes, which are worth exploring in between the dozes on the fantastic beaches.

The Caribbean islands generally consist of the Greater Antilles (the bigger islands of Cuba, Puerto Rico, Hispaniola and Jamaica) to the north and the Lesser Antilles – numerous smaller islands from the Virgin Islands to Trinidad off the coast of South America. And while you get the hammock under a palm tree (beware the coconuts!) and the turquoise sea by default, each of these islands has something unique to offer. All the islands are culturally diverse, their population being a mixture of Africans, Europeans, East Indians, Chinese, Latin Americans and their common offspring. Each island has been colonised by one or more European countries so you can witness a unique and charming mishmash of African music and Spanish architecture, Indian curry-dishes and French cuisine.
Most of the islands in the Lesser Antilles are volcanic so do not miss your chance to visit the volcanoes, especially in Montserrat and St. Kitts. You can also wander through tropical unexplored rainforest in Dominica and Tobago, take a boat trip among crocodiles and funny birds in Trinidad or watch giant sea turtles lay their eggs at night on the beaches of Grenada. Some say there is even more life underwater so don´t miss the diving and snorkelling among colourful fish, amazing coral reefs and underwater active volcanoes in Carriacou.
So visiting only one island in the Caribbean is like eating only the cherry off your cake – it will be rich and tasty but not complete. And once you are there, why not do some island hopping?

The sunsets are guaranteed. (Photo: Andrey Valkov)

The sunsets are guaranteed. (Photo: Andrey Valkov)

Island hopping in the Caribbean is easier than you probably imagine. The different islands, despite most of them being each a seperate country have very good and relatively inexpensive connections. You will also see planes imitating you – that is: hopping between one or more islands on their way to their final destination. The competition among airlines in the region has been on the rise recently and that has brought a further drop in prices. To or from the Caribbean you can also easily connect with South, Central or North America and continue your journey. So no matter where you decide to start your journey or whether you are going north or south, make sure you always consult dohop.com for the best price available, as dohop.com finds flights on small and large airlines around the globe.

A profile of a Café-Café Babalú

Café Babalú-photo Rúna ValaAs I climb up the narrow staircase of this former apartment building the sound of funk meets me. The decorations are very much like you’d expect from an old aunt… in a good and homey way, couches, lamps and knick-knacks.

In the middle there is a bar, used as a kitchen, crowded with kitchen utensils an other useful stuff, and there I find the runner of the place. I ask him for an interview and he gladly accepts. I sit down and take out my mac while he finishes up some orders before he sits down. I notice that there is a cat there, conversing with some of the guests. I see a guy that I know that works there and ask him about the cat. He tells me that he (the cat) has decided that he lives here now.

Glenn comes over and we start chatting.

RV: What is your name and what is the name of this place?
G: My name is Glenn Barkan and the place is called Café Babalú (pronounced bah-bah-loo).
RV:What is the reason you came up with the idea of place?
G: It was already here when we started. It had been here for about four years when the owners kind of lost their interest, they were losing a lot of money and they just wanted to get rid of it. I was working here and saw the potential so me and my friend bought it together. Last March she sold me her half.
RV: What’s so special about this place?
G: The friendliness it generates. I like to greet everyone who comes in and talk to them. People start talking, even though they don’t know each other. It’s cozy and personal. We have a patio which is very popular in the summer.
RV: What is your speciality in eating and drinking?
G: We serve Crépes, both savory, with spinach or ham and sweet, with chocolate and fruit. The New York cheese cake is very popular, it’s my grandma’s secret recipe. Everything here is home made, which makes it special. We also offer all the regular coffee drinks and we make a nice chai latté. David (the one hat I spoke to about the cat earlier) has started making Chamomile latté and everyone likes our hot chocolate too.
RV: What type of people come here?
G: We get a lot of students and we receive groups like amateur photography, Bob Dylan appreciation club and in the evenings a lot of couples come to have a glass of wine or something. This is a place that I love coming to because I feel like the guests are my visitors. People that come here for the first time tell me that it’s so cute and charmed. I love making a place that people come to relax and feel safe. We started off with nothing but I didn’t have to take loans or make big investments. I just built on what I had. I’m not going to be rich by doing this, I just want to have enough to pay my employees and I want to keep the prices down so that the students keep coming here.
RV: What kind of music do you play?
G: A lot of old music, from the 30s and the 40s, jazz, blues and swing. I love Ella Fitzgerald. The employees can play what they like but we try to keep it mixed. I also sometimes play classical music .
I thank Glenn for his time and have an English Scone with jam and butter. It is delicious. I have to leave this relaxed and friendly café sooner than I want to, but I know that I’ll be there again soon.

Café Babalú is located at 22 Skólavörðustígur, the street leading to the big church at the top of the hill in down town Reykjavík.

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